Sewn // Grey buttoned cardigan for Rein

 It's Wednesday again! This week sure is flying by, but that's what I say every other week, so it shouldn't surprise me. Anyway, I'm really been busting out some sewing projects lately, so I have a fresh one to show you today.

This cardigan for Rein has been on my to-sew list for about 1.5 years, which is actually not too shabby for me, given how some projects lurk on the fabric shelf for a decade or so. I had the idea when browsing Pinterest, as it often happens (TG for Pinterest), and then scored the fabric at the discounted left-over pile in a local Tallinn fabric store. The prices there are usually too high for me, but this was half off, so I took it. I new that squeezing a men's size cardigan out of it would be complicated to say the least, but I took that chance and hoped it would pay off.

 Well, as you can see, I did manage to squeeze, and I really do mean squeeze this garment out of that fabric. I had to cut the sleeves in to pieces and the hem band looks almost like an after-thought. I just didn't have anything left to cut it from. Needless to say, I had only tiny scraps left once I was done. Which is how I like it, so all is well that ends well. Although, for a moment after I'd cut the body pieces I did think I wasn't going to be able to cut all the pieces needed for this. I was a little panicky for a sec, but then I made it work.

What I learned from this project is that sometimes, cutting a pattern piece into two or even three pieces can really help make a tight fabric situation work. The fabric band for the hem combines 4 pieces I cut from the final square piece of fabric I had left.

Now, you might think at first glance that the cardigan is made of two different fabrics, but actually it's not. The fabric was a double-knit, so I ended up just alternating between the two sides of fabric to create this effect. That was my game-plan from the start.

I used vintage buttons from my stash. I'm so glad I decided to bring all my buttons to Germany. I thought long and hard about leaving them, but ultimately, I just couldn't. Buttons can be expensive, and having a stash around comes in handy.

I might have made the buttonholes a bit too big, but oh well...

The only part of the garment I'm not 100% happy with is the neckline (what's with me and those necklines lately). Since I had to, again, cut the band along the grain versus cross-grain, it didn't have enough stretch in it to make those neat curves on the shoulders. But, I guess it's not that noticeable when he's wearing it out and about. And he didn't mind it, so I guess it's all good.

As for the pattern, I used a Burda Magazine pattern (mod. 133 from 10/2008). I cut the smallest size, and ended up taking in 2 cm from each pattern piece on the sides, so a total of 8cm from the bust, and another 4cm from the sleeve width (2cm from each side). I always new Burda patterns were more on the large side, but taking into account that Reins actual measurements are a size up according to the size chart, that's a lot. So, whenever you work with Burda magazine patterns, check for the measurements on the pattern pieces before you cut, and when in doubt, always go a size down. That's why it's almost impossible for me to sew a Burda pattern for myself without major alterations, because even the smallest size is way too big for me.

One of my goals is to put together a range of tried and tested patterns for Rein, that I could whip up without alterations. So far, I've perfected a t-shirt pattern (more on that to come), and now I also have a cardigan pattern. I used to make every pattern only once, but now I'm seeing the benefits of perfecting the fit of one pattern, and them making different variations of it. A trouser pattern is next. I don't know if I dare try a Burda pattern, though. I tried to make him a pair that ended up being about 4 sizes too big, although it should have fit according to the size chart. I'm sure I'll figure something out.

What's on your sewing table?

xo. Hanna