Refashionista is finally back! It's been too long since my last refashionista post. Not that I haven't made anything, but it's taken me awhile to get things photographed, and I've also been sewing from scratch more these days (those posts are coming as well).
Now, on to this beauty I made several months ago, actually. One of my goals for this school year was to add to my performance wear. I desperately needed a simple, yet dressy concert gown. I made myself a gorgeous, but super fancy concert gown last spring, but I needed something more subtle. What would be better than a classic and elegant long black evening gown.
For this dress I used two old garments from my refashion pile (pictured above). The first a simple black velvet dress that was a couple of sizes too big and an odd length. The second my Mom's old lace blouse she wasn't wearing anymore. The best thing about these two garments was that they were both stretchy, which meant no zippers and an ultra comfy dress. It's like performing in your pj's!
The velvet dress was exactly wide enough to become the skirt part of the new dress. I cut the upper part of the velvet dress off, just below the armholes and attached it to the underlining of the lace blouse.
Then I used the pattern on the lace to cut out a new uneven hem for the blouse. I attached the blouse hem to the velvet skirt with pins and sewed it on by hand adding small seed beads along the way as embellishment. I did the same cut out hem with the sleeves of the dress. I think it gives it so much more sophistication, although it's a very simple modification.
This could be the easiest evening gown ever made. It turned out exactly as I hoped and I've been getting a lot of wear out of it already. A very successful make in my book!
I have a confession to make - I'm a fabric hoarder. I know, I know, you're probably saying that all seamstresses are. And maybe you're right, but sometimes I feel that I just can't let a fabric go. I'll second guess every project I have in mind for that fabric and hesitate whether it's the right one. And so it sits sadly in my fabric pile for years. This fabric is one of those sad ones. Although it's been sitting on my shelf for only a little over a year, it's really at least 2 decades old, probably 3+. I got it from my Grandma.
There were so many times I wanted to use this fabric. I love the colors and the print, and I always thought it'd make a great dress, but I couldn't decide on the design. Every once in a while I'd take it out and looked at it, and put it back. I didn't dare make anything from it, because then that would have been it. Sounds ridiculous, right? But, some fabrics simply are more special than others.
I took it out once more about 3 weeks ago and decided that it was time to let go. I knew I wanted to make another maxi dress because I love wearing them during the summer, and I thought this fabric would be perfect for summer, but also great for layering during fall. I didn't even use any pattern, although the Saltspring dress from Sewaholic was a big inspiration. So, if you want to great a similar look, that's a great pattern to use.
I used bias binding to bind the neckline and create the straps. And I used elastic to define the waistline. It was a real quick sew, only took me a few hours to complete, and I've been wearing it a lot these past weeks. I love it so much that I seemed to have forgotten I also own other dresses. But, I guess that's how you know the project is a success.
In the last couple of years every summer I've been a huge fan of maxi dresses and skirts. They're the perfect thing to wear during the Estonian summer. They're light enough for warmer weather, but keep your legs warm in case of a sudden change in temperatures (not at all rare around these parts) or in the evenings.
I had already two me-made maxi dresses for the summer and a maxi skirt, but they were getting so much wear that I knew another maxi was in order. So here's my third maxi dress. This time in jersey fabric. Since I own both a serger/overlocker and a cover machine, it only took me about 2 hours to complete.
I've already worn it so many times that I'm thinking about making another version in a different fabric, but I'm not sure I have enough fabric in my stash. We'll see...
The process was rather simple, although the directions are long. I just want everything to be as clear as possible.
Step 1. Measuring the fabric
I measured the length of my dress (from the top of my shoulder to the ground, plus add seam allowances) and cut my fabric to that length. I used a tube fabric, meaning it was knit in the round, and the tube was the width needed for the hem (bottom circumference), so I only had to cut the fabric into on dress-length piece.
If you don't have tubular fabric, that's fine too. Here's how to measure the fabric you need:
1) Measure the length of your dress (= length from top of the shoulder to the ground + seam allowances [1cm for the shoulder seam + 3cm for the hem]). Then calculate the circumference of the widest part of your dress. This will probably be the hem, because you need to be able to step comfortably in that dress. One way to get that measurement is to take a big step forward with one foot, and then stand like that and measure around your ankles. Or, another way would be to add about 40-50cm to you hip measurement. Again, add side seam allowances to that measurement (4cm in total).
2) The second step is to measure the width of your fabric (if it's a tubular fabric, measure the width of the tube). If the width of your fabric is at least 4cm wider than the circumference of the widest part of your dress, then you only need one dress-length of fabric. If, however, the fabric is narrower than that, you need 2x the dress length of fabric. Does that make sense? (if not, leave me a comment)
Example:
Dress length + seam allowance = 154cm
Widest circumference + seam allowance = 200 cm
Fabric needed: 155 cm of 200cm-wide fabric or 310cm of narrower fabric
Step 2. Marking the dress pattern
Cut two pieces of fabric - both pieces being the length of your dress+seam allowance x 1/2 the widest circumference + 2cm seam allowance (in my example that would be 154cm x 102cm). Once you've cut the fabric, fold it in half.
For the top part I used my trusty tank top pattern. Several people have asked my about this pattern, so I finally looked it up, and it's from Burda 5/2007 pattern nr 109 (it's a racer back style), but I also found very good tank top patterns from Burda 11/2006 (nr 111) and Burda 6/2007 (nr 106, dress bodice).
If you don't have a pattern similar to this, just take a tank top from your closet, fold it in half and use that as a pattern to mark the top on you fabric.
I wanted a low back, so I cut both fabric pieces (the front and the back) using the front pattern piece.
Now, onto the skirt portion of the dress. First, measure the distance from the narrowest part of your waist to the widest part of your hips. Mark those on the fabric. Then measure your hip circumference and divide by 4. Mark that on the fabric (see picture above for the markings).
I drew the side seamline with a free hand starting from the waist and curved it out towards the hips, and then even more out towards the edge of the fabric until I reached the hem (or the widest part of the dress) (shown in the picture above).
Once my pieces were cut, I straightened the hem.
Step 3. Sewing
1) First, sew the shoulder seams.
2) Next, cut 3 long 3cm-wide strips of fabric from the remaining fabric scraps to cover the armholes and the neckline. Fold them in half and press with an iron. Then, fold them over the cut edges of the armholes and neckline just as you would with bias binding, and sew in place. I used my cover machine to sew them on. If you don't have a cover machine, this job can easily be done using a double needle on your sewing machine, or the zig-zag stitch.
3) After binding the armholes and neckline, sew the side seams together.
4) Finally, finish the hem. Fold the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric and press. Pin the hem in place and sew.
If you don't have a serger/over-locker or a cover machine, I'd recommend using a knit stitch (looks like little lightning bolts in a row, or like a crooked zig-zag) or a narrow zig-zag stitch for the side and shoulder seams, and a double needle or a zig-zag stitch for the binding and hem.
Step 4. Embellishment
If you want, you can embellish the dress with a few fabric flowers, a lace pocket or some beads. Or just leave it the way it is. I opted for some fabric flowers similar to these.
(Tutorial updated in May 2014)
Special thanks to Marita for photographing the dress!
