Refashionista // Add a lace layer to a bland cardigan

Sometimes, a refashion idea takes time to form. This is NOT one of those times. This refashion came together pretty fast on one afternoon this week. I was going through my refashion material pile (it's amazing how quickly I've gathered one, considered I just moved to Germany a few months ago), looking for inspiration for the next few weeks of refashionista posts, and this cardigan just popped out.

The next step was to come up with an idea of what to do with it. So, I went through my notions and fabrics, and the lace scraps from my wedding dress popped up. Well, let's just say it was a no-brainer for this lace-lover.

 After the idea and materials were in place, it was just a matter of execution. And since I've already done a similar technique, it was a quick make.

I've said this before, but quick and easy makes will probably always be my favorite pastime. I mean, I love a good power project to build skills and create something you'll be proud of for years to come, like my concert gown, but if you just want to spend a couple hours creating and have a finished project at the end of it, these simple remakes are the best.

 Here's what you will need:

• a cardigan
• some lace fabric
• basic sewing gear

STEP 1

 First, lay the lace over the cardigan at the upper front area. Just play around with the placement until you're happy with the way it looks.

 Then, cut out the pieces of lace to be sewn onto the shoulders. Make sure to cut them 1-2cm larger than the finished size. this makes them easier to sew on, and the finish will be neater once you cut away the seam allowance later on.
Pin the lace onto the cardigan. Make sure to only pin through the front layer of the cardigan.

STEP 2

Repeat the same process with the back of the cardigan. I wanted to create a motif out of my lace, so I cut away some of it along the edges of the lace motifs. Again, cut out the the piece of lace you're going to layer, making sure to add 1-2cm for seam allowance. Pin into place.

The lace patches should overlap at the shoulder seam.

STEP 3

 Sew the lace to the cardigan. Use a zigzag stitch for this and follow the seams of the cardigan. It's best to sew right next to the original seams of he cardigan. Start by sewing the two patches of lace together at the shoulder seams and move to the front from there.

Once the smaller patches have been sewn, go to the back.

To sew the uneven motif edges, I used a lightning bolt/stretch stitch and sewed about 2cm from the edge. This way the edges are still loose over the cardigan and give it more layered structure.

Once you're done with all of the sewing, remove all pins that might still be there and cut away the excess lace seam allowances. All done!

If you need more guidance on how to sew on the lace, check out this tutorial!

I feel that this is a 100% Hanna-like refashion. It's a cardigan, I added lace, and the result is just the right mix of feminine and classic. That's basically me in a nutshell!

I'm slowly but steadily building up my summer wardrobe (you can see my wishlist here). So far, I've made this cropped cardigan, a skirt and a blouse (part of the Start Sewing Club and to be blogged about in full in just a few days) in addition to this lacy cardigan, and of course the reversible tote bag. I really want to make a pair of floral trousers and a maxi dress. Everything else is an added bonus :).

Is anybody else interested in sewing their own summer wardrobe, or part of it? You know I have a sewing course coming, right? And you know we're going to sew a handmade garment, right? Just checking! (You can get on the list to get updates and special offers right below this post.)

Have a wonderful extended weekend! Make fires and enjoy the spring!
xo. Hanna

DIY // Stitch up a pretty and practical reversible tote bag

Summer is fast approaching. In fact, some days feel like summer already, which makes this summer-lover very happy! The warm days of spring and summer are perfect for spending time outdoors - whether having a picnic in the park, or getting sun-kissed at the beach.

For me, the best thing to have for these outdoor events is a huge bag to throw the blankets, food, magazines and board-games in. I like my bags bigger rather than smaller anyway, but these are the times I really appreciate having a fit-it-all bag. Which is why I decided to make this reversible tote bag. It's pretty straight-forward to make, very practical, and to top it off, also very pretty.

 This is what you need:

• 2 pieces of cotton fabric (both measuring 130cmx55cm)
• 135cm of 3-5cm-wide belt strap (or straps from an old bag, or even an old belt)
• 2 large buttons
• approximately 80cm of shoelace
• basic sewing equipment
• Ruler and marking tool
• Paper clamps

STEP 1

 Cut 2 rectangles measuring 65x55cm from both fabrics. Repeat each following step with both fabrics. You'll basically be creating 2 bags that go inside each other.
Also, cut the strap in half.

Take the shoelace and cut it into 3 equal part. You're going to braid them, so pinch the ends on one side between a paper clamp and start braiding. When you get to the other end, clamp the braid with another paper clamp.

Now you can start sewing.
Put 2 rectangles from the same fabric on top of each other so that all the edges line up, and the right side (the prettier side) of the fabric is inside. Sew 3 sides of the bag as marked on the above photo with a seam allowance of 1cm.

Repeat with the other fabric.

STEP 2

Fold the bag from the wrong side (where the seam allowances show) so that the side seam lines up with the bottom seam and the corner is pointed out and mark a line 15cm from the tip of the corner. The line needs to be at a 90 degree angle from the seams.

Sew the corner seam you just marked. You can cut off the corner after you're done if you want to.

STEP 3

Press all seams. Also, fold the upper edge of the bag to the inside to create a 2cm wide hem and press that down. Repeat on both bags.

Mark the center on both bags (equal distances from the side seams. The make a mark 3cm from the center mark on both sides. This is for the button loop.

Next, make a mark 12cm from the center on both sides of the mark. Those marks are for the straps.

STEP 4

 Place one bag inside each other, it doesn't matter which one, so that the wrong sides face each other and the right sides are out. Align the side seams and the upper edges with each other and pin.

 Start sewing together the two layers of the bag. Keep the strap and button loop (braid) at hand. Start from one of the side seams and sew about 3mm from the edge, until about 4cm before the first marking. Make sure your needle is lowered and stop for a second.

 Place one end of the first strap in between the 2 bag layers at the first marking (that's 12cm from the center). Tuck in about 4cm of the strap end. Hold the strap in place with your fingers and slowly sew over it.  Repeat that when you get to the second marking on the other side, but first, you'll need to add the ribbon loop. See below!

Ok, so now you've got on end of the first strap sewn in and you're approaching the first button loop marking. Take the shoelace braid, remove the clamp and insert it between the two layers of fabric, just like you did with the strap. Again, hold it in place with your fingers and slowly sew over it.

Repeat once you get to the other marking.

You only need to insert the loop on one side, so once you get to the other side of the bag, you only need to insert another strap.

Keep sewing the edge of the bag until you get back to the beginning full circle. Now you have your straps and loop fastened, and bags attached to each other. Just a couple more steps and you're done!

STEP 5

To make the straps more durable, sew a box with an X inside on top of the strap end that's tucked between the bag layers (see photo above). Repeat with all 4 strap ends.

STEP 6

 Lastly, sew buttons onto the center of the other side of the bag, about 4cm from the upper edge. One button to one side (floral on my bag) and the other button to the same spot on the facing side (the beige on my bag. I found that the best way to do that is to sew them on at once, like a reinforced button. And, keep a toothpick between the layers of thread so you don't sew the button on too tight. After the buttons are secured, circle the thread between the button and fabric to create a little "foot" for the button. I hope this makes sense.

BONUS STEP

In case you want to reinforce the button of the bag to give it more body, you can craft a simple bottom from a plastic paper folder. I just cut off the cover and sides of the folder, and covered it with fabric, which I glued to the plastic using a glue gun.

Whew! That was a lot of steps, but it's totally worth it. Also, I guarantee you that the actual process of sewing this takes less time than it did for me to write out all these steps. The joy of blogging, eh?

I hope this inspires you to bust out that sewing machine, and stitch up something useful for your summer adventures! And, if you like the dress on the photos, here's the tutorial.

I'm going to keep the blogging load a little bit lighter this week in order to work on the Start Sewing Club. But, I will see you on Thursday to share a cute refashion.

Speaking of the Start Sewing Club - sign up below! You'll be the first to get all the news, and some early bird bonuses that I will only offer to the awesome people on that list. And, of course, you will receive a free Start Sewing Guide to get you started. I'm all about #startsewing !

xo. Hanna

Life Lately

 Life has been full lately. Full of thought and process, a lot of progress and even perfection. I haven't done a life update in a while, so I thought it would be high time I shared what I've been up to these days.

I've made some progress on the work-front and am now nanny-ing part-time and giving piano lessons. It's funny how life works sometimes. Both of these jobs are by Estonian-German families, meaning the Mom in the family is Estonian. What's even more, I blindly applied for the nanny position without even knowing it was a fellow Estonian. Worked out perfectly!

I can honestly say I've enjoyed every working hour spent these past couple of weeks. I'm super content with the situation at the moment in the sense that this arrangement helps us out financially, but leaves time for building my blog and business. Plus, the little girl I'm looking after is just the cutest. I might have to take on one more family to work for, just to bring more financial security to our lives, but other than that I'm happy with the way things are.

Speaking of building my business. Here's a little sneak peek at the projects I've been working on for the Start Sewing Club. I'm totally in love with both projects, and I loved sewing these. My goal was to create a 2-piece outfit that's fun to sew (even for total beginners) and has a lot of potential for different variations. And, they are the perfect addition to a summer wardrobe. I'm going to share more details with the Start Sewing List, so get on it if you haven't already (just fill in the form below!). I'm going to sew another set with the club, and I'm already looking forward to it.

Now that I'm done with the samples and figured out the meat of the program, I'm almost ready to launch. So Excited! Seriously, I think this is it. This is the project I've been searching for. The idea of this sewing club was one that just clicked and I instantly felt so inspired to create it. I'm all about ideas in general, but this one was different somehow. You know what I mean? I really had to contain myself to keep the time-frame and project load to a manageable size this time. I had grand plans, but luckily I have a hubby who knows how to ground me. Since the first run of the club will be a pioneer, I really need to keep the work-load manageable for both me and the club members.

I could write a whole post on this subject, and I probably will, but for now, I'm going to leave it at this little update.

Last but not least, I HAVE to talk about the weather. I mean, would you just look at that?! I love spring in Cologne!! There are gorgeous blooming trees everywhere, and it's been super warm and sunny for the past 2 weeks. It's what I used to dream about in Estonia. I totally see why people love spring now. It was hard seeing the beauty of spring when it consisted of melting snow, mud puddles and cold wind, whereas here it's like summer in Estonia. So pretty!

Life lately has been a whirlwind, but in a good way. I hope yours has, too!

xo. Hanna

P.S! I know this is getting annoying, but I just can't contain myself. Do hop on the Start Sewing mailing list and I'll send you more updates on the upcoming Sewing Club and early bird bonuses that only the list-people get. Oh, and of course, you'll get the Start Sewing Guide sent to your inbox for free!

Read & Relax

Happy weekend! It's been a busy one over here, and I'm going to write more about that tomorrow, but for today, I just wanted to hop by and share some of the cool things I've found on the internet recently.

These words of Ira Glass really struck a cord with me. Starting out with anything creative can be a struggle, and usually is. Which is why it's so important to remember that we all start from the beginning, and that nobody's first try is ever perfect.

The most inspiring and touching speech I've heard, by J.K. Rowling. The emotion I got from listening to it is hard to put into words. It's definitely worth a listen, whether you like Harry Potter or not.

McDonald's passed off as organic food? This one is all about the power of priming. An amazing example of how much the framing of a product (the context it's in) really influences us.

Whether you like their product or not, Dove sure pulls off some amazing campaigns. If you had to choose between a door that says "Beautiful" and a door that says "Average", which one would you walk through? Made me think about how I see myself. I haven't discussed it on the blog, but it's no secret that I've gained some weight after moving to Germany. And it's been a struggle to see myself as beautiful. But, it really is important what we tell and how we treat ourselves. I for one am determined to treat myself better.

If you've been wondering what to do with the exterior of your home, here's and idea. Wow! is all i have to say about that.

And, in case you're doing some spring cleaning, here are some good tips for taking care of your jewelry. Plus, Makaro has some gorgeous jewelry, so, you know, in case you're looking for a Mother's day gift, be sure to give their collection a look-through. (Hubby, if you're reading this, I would love this!)

Last, but not least, if you're looking for a DIY project, why not give the scrap yarn blanket on the above photo a go? It's the perfect piece to cuddle up in around the bonfire.

xo. Hanna

P.S! I'm sewing the first samples for the Sewing Club projects. An update is coming soon! If you're interested, sign-up below!

15 quick and easy lace fixes for old garments

I'm sure my love for lace doesn't come as a surprise to anyone. I've sung my love song to lace ever since I started this blog, and really, I've been in love with it forever. Lace and I are super tight! 

So, for me, it comes naturally that whenever I need to refashion or mend a garment, I think of lace first. Like "Hey, how about adding some lace?" or "I wonder if I have any lace in my stash that matches this fabric?" This also means that I do a ton of refashions using lace. I've actually had to consciously stop myself numerous times because I bet you'd get super bored of seeing only lace added here and lace squeezed in there every week.

That being said, I still find lace amazing, and so I wanted to highlight 15 projects and 5 easy ways you can utilize lace in your refashioning projects. 

1) Use lace to add length. There's been many times that lace has literally saved my ass, as in covered it when the garment couldn't. Like the red minidress in the top photo - I wouldn't be able to wear it if i hadn't added a wide panel of lace to make it longer. And, just out of curiosity, who wear a dress that short? I mean, I'm 162cm and it's way too short on me. Maybe it's meant to be a shirt??
I've also used lace to add length to a blouse, and to make up for my mistake of cutting this skirt too short.

2) Use lace collars to add a fresh layer of texture. Ready-made lace collars are a great way to add some functionality or texture to an old garment. Adding a lace collar can really elevate a simple blouse, and give a whole new look to an out-dated vest. The last one is by far my favorite 10-minute project.

3) Use lace to cover up and/or cut out stains. Adding some lace on top of a stain is a great way to visually lose the stain. I love cutting out the original layer of fabric away from underneath the lace and bringing some see-through action to garments. It add so much more interest and sophistication to a garment.
Here are a few ways to get started: the heart cut-out tee, the lace neckline tee, the bubble tee, and of course the sheer back tee.

4) Use lace to add visual interest. Sometimes a garment just lacks oomph, and lace is a quick way to add some "vavavoom". I love adding a lace panel to the hem of a skirt (like HERE and HERE). It's also a great way to update a granny jacket, or spice up a pair of simple cut-off jeans.

5) Use lace to fix a fit issue. Lace is pretty and compliments a lot of different garments, which makes it the perfect material to use when you need to fix a fit issue, but don't have extra fabric to work with. I've used it to add straps to a strapless dress, and to add width to a garment (like in the bottom photo).

I hope this sparked some ideas in you how you could use lace to refashion or even mend old garments. If you're not that into lace, it's cool too (but really, I don't think we can be friends anymore). But, I challenge you to try it out before you discard it. Lace doesn't have to be "pink" and overly girly. It can also be sophisticated and classy. It all comes down to the way you use it.

xo. Hanna

Struggling to get even seam allowances? 3 tips that help

Sewing has been on my mind a lot lately, and writing the Start Sewing Guide made me realize how many tricks I use when sewing that I don't even think about now, but didn't know when I first started. Those little tips can make sewing much easier and help get better results. Since fitting all that info into the guide would have made it into a novel, I thought I'd share some of them on the blog instead.

Today I'll tackle seam allowances. What's a seam allowance, you ask? It's the area between the edge of the fabric and the seam (meaning the line of stitches).

Some patterns have a set seam allowance built into them, which means it's very important to keep the seam allowance at that exact measure to ensure the best result. Other times, you'll have to add the seam allowance yourself and then it really comes down to your preferred seam allowance width. I usually sew with a 1cm (2/5") seam allowance, but a lot of American sewing pattern have a 5/8" (1.5cm) already added to the pattern pieces. Whether or not the seam allowances have already been added, and how wide they are is something you should always check before you start sewing using any pattern.

Here are 3 tips that help you keep your seam allowances constant while sewing.

 1) Use the presser foot to guide the seam. Since the most common presser foot is about 2cm wide, keeping the edge of the presser foot flush with the edge of the fabric will result in roughly a 1cm-wide seam allowance. This is the perfect fit for quilting where a narrower seam allowance is best and it's important to keep it consistent so the lines meet up when you assemble the blocks.

I used this method the most. Since I use mostly Burda patterns and self-drafted patterns where I need to add the seam allowances myself, I always opt for a narrower seam allowance. Using the presser foot edge as a guide is the easiest method I've found to keep an even seam allowance.

The downside - less extra fabric to adjust fit. Also, this method can be trickier to follow with flimsy fabrics that require more grip from the sewing machine.

 2) Use the guides on the sewing machine or create your own. Most modern sewing machines have guides built into the needle plate. For example, mine has a 1cm and a 1.5cm line. Just keep the edge of the fabric running along that marked line and you'll get a nice even seam allowance that's exactly the width you need.

If you don't have the necessary width marked on your machine, you can always make your own mark with a sharpie. You can remove the marking with nail polish remover after your done if you don't need it anymore.

You can see the seams I sewed below. 1) using the presser foot as a guide and 2) using the guide lines.

3) Keep your eye on the guide NOT the needle. A mistake I've seen novice or inexperienced seamstresses make is looking at the needle while they sew. I know it seems important to follow the needle, but in reality, it will just pull your attention away from the seam allowance and you can easily end up with a wobbly seam (and uneven seam allowances). It's much more efficient to keep your eye on the edge of the fabric and feed it along the guide, whether it be the edge of the presser foot or a guide on the needle plate. The sewing machine won't stop sewing when you're looking away from the needle, trust me! Just remove the pins before the presser foot runs over them and then there's no need to constantly supervise the needle.

By the way, these tips will also help you get nice straight seams.

If you want to learn more and dream of sewing your won clothing, subscribe to the Start Sewing list below and get the free 15-page Start Sewing Guide. I'm rolling out an awesome program called the Start Sewing Club real soon, and people on the list will get all the info first, plus some exclusive early bird bonuses.

Ok, so... start sewing!
xo. Hanna

Words for the Week No.30 // Try and fail

These words have been on my mind lately. I can't say I've really succeeded in anything over the past few months, but I can sure say that I've tried. I've done my best each and every day, and this thought somehow puts me at ease. I've found that what I'm most scared of in life is not failure, but not being brave enough to try, and try again. To give it my all. Yes, failing sucks. But having not tried sucks even more.

I've noticed how much more I regret all the things I haven't done due to fear, than the things that I have done and maybe haven't turned out that great. Like owning my Etsy shop for example. It was no success story, but it taught me a lot about myself and what I really want in life. Without that "failure" I would not have learned a valuable lesson. And, I probably would still be wondering the "What if..."s and "why didn't I..."s. What I realized is that learning what you don't like doing, or what you're not good at is just as important as knowing your likes and strengths. Especially if you're multi-passionate like me.

The other important thing I've been noticing in other people's stories is how there really is no over night successes. Before that seemingly quick success you can usually find years of failed attempts. We were watching a show about Modern Talking yesterday, you know that 80's ultra popular German duo,  and I was so surprised to learn how both members of the group had actually had failed careers as solo artists before their success together, which, by the way, one of them didn't even want to be a part of at first, thinking it might ruin his efforts as a solo artist. It's a fascinating story!

I don't think there is one success story that comes without the doubt, fear and failure factor. Everybody who has ever achieved anything great has had those moments when either they themselves, or others, didn't believe in what they were trying to build. The moments when the shit hit the fan. The "NO!"s, the rejection, and the thought of not being good enough. Most everyone has those moments. It's part of the process. And, the sooner we accept it, the sooner we can move on.

This is a concept that has been the toughest for me to adapt, but I truly believe that there are no wasted attempts. Every failure is good for something. Every failure is a way to learn. Without it you would never learn the skills and knowledge to succeed.

Try -> analyze the results -> try to do better - >analyze the results -> rinse+repeat. I don't know how many cycles it will take me to get the formula right, but I'm willing to do the work to get there.

What's the one thing you really need to try again?

xo. Hanna

P.S! You can learn about my latest venture "The Pearls & Scissors Sewing Club" here, and join the mailing list to get the latest and the greatest right below!