Sewn // Maxi skirt & Pleated blouse

I've talked a lot about the Start Sewing Club on the blog over the past week, but I haven't properly blogged about the garments I made for the club. So, I thought I'd share a few (ahem...) photos of the finished projects that I made as samples for the club.

We did the shoot for the samples in a nearby park, and I love how they turned out. Hence the million photos about to follow. I've said this before, but every time Rein takes photos of me (aka 99% of the photos you see on the blog these days) I'm amazed by how much he's grown as a photographer over the past year. For instance, I didn't crop any of the photos from this shoot. I loved all the angles he shot! I'm seriously considering getting him into a photography course. I know this is totally unrelated to this post, but I'm just so proud of him.

Have you also noticed the improvement in the photography on the blog, or is it just me?

Back to the projects. I'm totally loving the maxi skirt! I'm actually contemplating wearing it to my best friend's wedding, but since I made it to be worn with flats, I'm not really sure.

I used a creamy pink slightly textured fabric I already had in my stash. I'm not sure about the fiber content, but if I had to guess, I'd say it's a cotton-viscose blend. It's a medium-weight and has a great drape. Luckily, I had just enough to make the skirt. I lined this one, since it was a tad too sheer. Adding a lining will be one of the bonus sessions in the course, by the way.

 My aim was to design something that would be very easy to create even for beginners. I know patterns can be a stumbling block for beginners, so I designed both my club projects to be made without a pattern to transfer and trace. This skirt, for example, consists of 2 rectangles, basically.

I know that a circle skirt is often suggested as a great first sewing project, but I actually disagree with that. Drafting a circle skirt is much more difficult than drafting a pleated skirt. Also, it's more difficult to sew, because of the curved hem.

Pleats, on the other hand, are so easy to construct and sew. And, there are have so many variations that once you've masted the basics of pleating and understand how to construct them, you can sew up a whole wardrobe full of different pleated skirt - each different from the rest.

I also wanted to leave out zippers. They can be intimidating for a beginner, and take the fun right out of sewing. And, I wanted to show that there are other ways to construct closures that don't involve the notorious zipper.

I carried the same principled onto the blouse. A very simple self-drafted pattern and no zippers. Also, no darts. A simple silhouette that would suit most body types was what I was after. I've been loving flowing loose-fitted deigns lately, so that's what I went for. You can always belt it is what I say.

To make room for our feminine curves, I added shoulder pleats, which also make pretty design features, I think. The width of the blouse and the fabric band create a faux capped sleeve. (Side note: the design is also very maternity-friendly)

The pattern is again constructed based on a rectangle that is then modified in the course of the sewing process. This is a process I developed to make creating a self-drafted pattern very easy and straight forward. You don't need any knowledge of pattern-drafting - being able to hold a ruler is enough.

The fabric I used for the blouse has a story of its own. I got it from my Grandma a few years back. It's a vintage fabric she had kept in her stash for about 30 years. So, the fabric itself is older than I am. What I love about it is that it has an oddly modern pattern. Which shows how styles always come back in fashion.

I hope you enjoyed the look at my club projects, and the behind the scenes details. What do you like or dislike about the projects I created for the club? Did you get excited to create your own version? Tell me in the comments!

xo. Hanna

P.S! If you got inspired to maybe join the sewing course, you can get all the club details HERE. 

Refashionista // Add a lace layer to a bland cardigan

Sometimes, a refashion idea takes time to form. This is NOT one of those times. This refashion came together pretty fast on one afternoon this week. I was going through my refashion material pile (it's amazing how quickly I've gathered one, considered I just moved to Germany a few months ago), looking for inspiration for the next few weeks of refashionista posts, and this cardigan just popped out.

The next step was to come up with an idea of what to do with it. So, I went through my notions and fabrics, and the lace scraps from my wedding dress popped up. Well, let's just say it was a no-brainer for this lace-lover.

 After the idea and materials were in place, it was just a matter of execution. And since I've already done a similar technique, it was a quick make.

I've said this before, but quick and easy makes will probably always be my favorite pastime. I mean, I love a good power project to build skills and create something you'll be proud of for years to come, like my concert gown, but if you just want to spend a couple hours creating and have a finished project at the end of it, these simple remakes are the best.

 Here's what you will need:

• a cardigan
• some lace fabric
• basic sewing gear

STEP 1

 First, lay the lace over the cardigan at the upper front area. Just play around with the placement until you're happy with the way it looks.

 Then, cut out the pieces of lace to be sewn onto the shoulders. Make sure to cut them 1-2cm larger than the finished size. this makes them easier to sew on, and the finish will be neater once you cut away the seam allowance later on.
Pin the lace onto the cardigan. Make sure to only pin through the front layer of the cardigan.

STEP 2

Repeat the same process with the back of the cardigan. I wanted to create a motif out of my lace, so I cut away some of it along the edges of the lace motifs. Again, cut out the the piece of lace you're going to layer, making sure to add 1-2cm for seam allowance. Pin into place.

The lace patches should overlap at the shoulder seam.

STEP 3

 Sew the lace to the cardigan. Use a zigzag stitch for this and follow the seams of the cardigan. It's best to sew right next to the original seams of he cardigan. Start by sewing the two patches of lace together at the shoulder seams and move to the front from there.

Once the smaller patches have been sewn, go to the back.

To sew the uneven motif edges, I used a lightning bolt/stretch stitch and sewed about 2cm from the edge. This way the edges are still loose over the cardigan and give it more layered structure.

Once you're done with all of the sewing, remove all pins that might still be there and cut away the excess lace seam allowances. All done!

If you need more guidance on how to sew on the lace, check out this tutorial!

I feel that this is a 100% Hanna-like refashion. It's a cardigan, I added lace, and the result is just the right mix of feminine and classic. That's basically me in a nutshell!

I'm slowly but steadily building up my summer wardrobe (you can see my wishlist here). So far, I've made this cropped cardigan, a skirt and a blouse (part of the Start Sewing Club and to be blogged about in full in just a few days) in addition to this lacy cardigan, and of course the reversible tote bag. I really want to make a pair of floral trousers and a maxi dress. Everything else is an added bonus :).

Is anybody else interested in sewing their own summer wardrobe, or part of it? You know I have a sewing course coming, right? And you know we're going to sew a handmade garment, right? Just checking! (You can get on the list to get updates and special offers right below this post.)

Have a wonderful extended weekend! Make fires and enjoy the spring!
xo. Hanna

DIY // Stitch up a pretty and practical reversible tote bag

Summer is fast approaching. In fact, some days feel like summer already, which makes this summer-lover very happy! The warm days of spring and summer are perfect for spending time outdoors - whether having a picnic in the park, or getting sun-kissed at the beach.

For me, the best thing to have for these outdoor events is a huge bag to throw the blankets, food, magazines and board-games in. I like my bags bigger rather than smaller anyway, but these are the times I really appreciate having a fit-it-all bag. Which is why I decided to make this reversible tote bag. It's pretty straight-forward to make, very practical, and to top it off, also very pretty.

 This is what you need:

• 2 pieces of cotton fabric (both measuring 130cmx55cm)
• 135cm of 3-5cm-wide belt strap (or straps from an old bag, or even an old belt)
• 2 large buttons
• approximately 80cm of shoelace
• basic sewing equipment
• Ruler and marking tool
• Paper clamps

STEP 1

 Cut 2 rectangles measuring 65x55cm from both fabrics. Repeat each following step with both fabrics. You'll basically be creating 2 bags that go inside each other.
Also, cut the strap in half.

Take the shoelace and cut it into 3 equal part. You're going to braid them, so pinch the ends on one side between a paper clamp and start braiding. When you get to the other end, clamp the braid with another paper clamp.

Now you can start sewing.
Put 2 rectangles from the same fabric on top of each other so that all the edges line up, and the right side (the prettier side) of the fabric is inside. Sew 3 sides of the bag as marked on the above photo with a seam allowance of 1cm.

Repeat with the other fabric.

STEP 2

Fold the bag from the wrong side (where the seam allowances show) so that the side seam lines up with the bottom seam and the corner is pointed out and mark a line 15cm from the tip of the corner. The line needs to be at a 90 degree angle from the seams.

Sew the corner seam you just marked. You can cut off the corner after you're done if you want to.

STEP 3

Press all seams. Also, fold the upper edge of the bag to the inside to create a 2cm wide hem and press that down. Repeat on both bags.

Mark the center on both bags (equal distances from the side seams. The make a mark 3cm from the center mark on both sides. This is for the button loop.

Next, make a mark 12cm from the center on both sides of the mark. Those marks are for the straps.

STEP 4

 Place one bag inside each other, it doesn't matter which one, so that the wrong sides face each other and the right sides are out. Align the side seams and the upper edges with each other and pin.

 Start sewing together the two layers of the bag. Keep the strap and button loop (braid) at hand. Start from one of the side seams and sew about 3mm from the edge, until about 4cm before the first marking. Make sure your needle is lowered and stop for a second.

 Place one end of the first strap in between the 2 bag layers at the first marking (that's 12cm from the center). Tuck in about 4cm of the strap end. Hold the strap in place with your fingers and slowly sew over it.  Repeat that when you get to the second marking on the other side, but first, you'll need to add the ribbon loop. See below!

Ok, so now you've got on end of the first strap sewn in and you're approaching the first button loop marking. Take the shoelace braid, remove the clamp and insert it between the two layers of fabric, just like you did with the strap. Again, hold it in place with your fingers and slowly sew over it.

Repeat once you get to the other marking.

You only need to insert the loop on one side, so once you get to the other side of the bag, you only need to insert another strap.

Keep sewing the edge of the bag until you get back to the beginning full circle. Now you have your straps and loop fastened, and bags attached to each other. Just a couple more steps and you're done!

STEP 5

To make the straps more durable, sew a box with an X inside on top of the strap end that's tucked between the bag layers (see photo above). Repeat with all 4 strap ends.

STEP 6

 Lastly, sew buttons onto the center of the other side of the bag, about 4cm from the upper edge. One button to one side (floral on my bag) and the other button to the same spot on the facing side (the beige on my bag. I found that the best way to do that is to sew them on at once, like a reinforced button. And, keep a toothpick between the layers of thread so you don't sew the button on too tight. After the buttons are secured, circle the thread between the button and fabric to create a little "foot" for the button. I hope this makes sense.

BONUS STEP

In case you want to reinforce the button of the bag to give it more body, you can craft a simple bottom from a plastic paper folder. I just cut off the cover and sides of the folder, and covered it with fabric, which I glued to the plastic using a glue gun.

Whew! That was a lot of steps, but it's totally worth it. Also, I guarantee you that the actual process of sewing this takes less time than it did for me to write out all these steps. The joy of blogging, eh?

I hope this inspires you to bust out that sewing machine, and stitch up something useful for your summer adventures! And, if you like the dress on the photos, here's the tutorial.

I'm going to keep the blogging load a little bit lighter this week in order to work on the Start Sewing Club. But, I will see you on Thursday to share a cute refashion.

Speaking of the Start Sewing Club - sign up below! You'll be the first to get all the news, and some early bird bonuses that I will only offer to the awesome people on that list. And, of course, you will receive a free Start Sewing Guide to get you started. I'm all about #startsewing !

xo. Hanna

15 quick and easy lace fixes for old garments

I'm sure my love for lace doesn't come as a surprise to anyone. I've sung my love song to lace ever since I started this blog, and really, I've been in love with it forever. Lace and I are super tight! 

So, for me, it comes naturally that whenever I need to refashion or mend a garment, I think of lace first. Like "Hey, how about adding some lace?" or "I wonder if I have any lace in my stash that matches this fabric?" This also means that I do a ton of refashions using lace. I've actually had to consciously stop myself numerous times because I bet you'd get super bored of seeing only lace added here and lace squeezed in there every week.

That being said, I still find lace amazing, and so I wanted to highlight 15 projects and 5 easy ways you can utilize lace in your refashioning projects. 

1) Use lace to add length. There's been many times that lace has literally saved my ass, as in covered it when the garment couldn't. Like the red minidress in the top photo - I wouldn't be able to wear it if i hadn't added a wide panel of lace to make it longer. And, just out of curiosity, who wear a dress that short? I mean, I'm 162cm and it's way too short on me. Maybe it's meant to be a shirt??
I've also used lace to add length to a blouse, and to make up for my mistake of cutting this skirt too short.

2) Use lace collars to add a fresh layer of texture. Ready-made lace collars are a great way to add some functionality or texture to an old garment. Adding a lace collar can really elevate a simple blouse, and give a whole new look to an out-dated vest. The last one is by far my favorite 10-minute project.

3) Use lace to cover up and/or cut out stains. Adding some lace on top of a stain is a great way to visually lose the stain. I love cutting out the original layer of fabric away from underneath the lace and bringing some see-through action to garments. It add so much more interest and sophistication to a garment.
Here are a few ways to get started: the heart cut-out tee, the lace neckline tee, the bubble tee, and of course the sheer back tee.

4) Use lace to add visual interest. Sometimes a garment just lacks oomph, and lace is a quick way to add some "vavavoom". I love adding a lace panel to the hem of a skirt (like HERE and HERE). It's also a great way to update a granny jacket, or spice up a pair of simple cut-off jeans.

5) Use lace to fix a fit issue. Lace is pretty and compliments a lot of different garments, which makes it the perfect material to use when you need to fix a fit issue, but don't have extra fabric to work with. I've used it to add straps to a strapless dress, and to add width to a garment (like in the bottom photo).

I hope this sparked some ideas in you how you could use lace to refashion or even mend old garments. If you're not that into lace, it's cool too (but really, I don't think we can be friends anymore). But, I challenge you to try it out before you discard it. Lace doesn't have to be "pink" and overly girly. It can also be sophisticated and classy. It all comes down to the way you use it.

xo. Hanna