I'm a sucker for low back dresses. I just love them! Which is one of the reasons I reached for this comfy knit dress at the thrift store. It didn't hurt that it only cost me 1,5€ either. But, after a couple of wears it started to bother me that the shoulders kept sliding down. So, I figured I needed to figure out how to fix that, because I know I won't wear it when it's uncomfortable.
Then after considering different options, the zipper solution just came to my mind and I knew it was just what I was looking for.
Here's the back before I altered it. I knew I didn't want to just cover it up, but add something that would add to the awesomeness of the original dress.
Here's what I did:
First, I measured the distance across the back opening diagonally, because that's how I wanted the zippers to be placed. This gave me an idea how long my zippers needed to be.
I used two 16cm long zippers, although the measurement from the first step was 18cm. I just couldn't find a zipper in the right color in the correct length. But I worked out ok.
I placed the zippers diagonally unzipped and in a criss-cross to each other. I think the picture explains it best.
Then I placed the ends of the zipper under the edge to the wrong side of the dress and pinned.
Finally, I sewed the zippers to the dress from the right side sewing right on top of the existing seam to make it less noticeable.
Love the outcome! It's just what I needed and the zippers add a little bit of edginess to the dress as well.
Although I contemplated sewing my own wedding dress, I thankfully realized the stress it would cause me and made a much wiser decision of giving that important task to my Mother-in-law. I admire the seamstresses who tackle their own wedding gown, but I knew it would be too much for me to handle with all the other wedding stuff. However, I did make myself the after-midnight dress. Here in Estonia, it's the custom that the pride changes out of her wedding dress at midnight, the point where she is no longer the bride, but a married woman. I'll tell you a little bit more about this tradition in the upcoming post about our wedding traditions. But, for now I just wanted to share my second wedding dress with you.
I thought it would be sweet to incorporate some of the details of my wedding gown in the second dress as well. I cut an open back (should have gone for an even bigger plunge there), added the sweetheart neckline to the see-through lining, and cut a high neckline in the front like my gown had.
I used stretch fabric for the dress because 1) I love working with stretch fabrics 2) I've had this net lace type of fabric (it's like mesh with straight lines of thread and sequins sewn on) in my stash for about 9 years, and I finally found a project for it. I was super excited to use this fabric after so many times of taking it out and thinking about what to make out of it, and putting it back every single time. Nothing ever felt right, until now. I guess it was simply waiting for its time.
The funny story with the skirt is, that I actually meant for the side to be the front, but once I'd sewn together the two sides, I loved how the stripes met in the side seam, and the I just made the side seam the center, and vice versa.
It was the perfect dress for our after-party. It's super comfortable, yet so pretty, and the best part is that i know I'll wear it again and again. I think it's so sad that you only get to wear your wedding dress once. I know I'll think of our wedding every time I put on this dress.
I've started to sew more from scratch this summer. I'd drifted away from it in the past couple of years, but I'm finding my way back to patterns and fabric. Well, to patterns I can hack easily that is. When i started sewing about 10 years ago, I usually followed the pattern exactly, but as years went by and I did more and more refashions, I also used patterns less, or only in a modified way. So, now I look to patterns more as a starting point for my own vision.
Which is why this dress doesn't follow a set pattern, but is rather my own design brought to life with the help of a very simple jersey long-sleeved t-shirt pattern. I used a Burda pattern as the base for the upper part of the dress, but modified it considerably. I raised and widened the neckline in the front and reconstructed the back as a faux-wrap. I also shortened the sleeves.
I used a thrifted lace from my stash and paired it with a fuschia pink knit I bought for this project for the lining. In real life you can see more of the fuschia peaking through, which I like. I used a really cool and easy way to attach the bodice to the skirt using an elastic to do all my gathering and matching. If you're interested, I could do a tutorial on it. Let me know in the comments.
I made this dress for my Cologne auditions back in June, but I guess it wasn't a lucky dress for me. But, no matter, I still like it, and I'm sure it will have better luck in the future.
xo Hanna
Credits // Author: Hanna Saar // Photography: Anneliis Volmer // Photo editing: Hanna Saar
I'm very excited about today's refashion. Why? Well, I've done my share of refashions over the years, and I feel like I tend to repeat myself all too often. I mean, yes, every project is a bit different, but sometimes I just think to myself "Adding lace, again, are you? How original!" I love lace, by the way, and it certainly sneaks it's way into a lot of projects, but it's a great feeling when you think of a solution you haven't done before. And this dress is it. For months I just looked at it and my mind went blank. I thought about leaving it as is and wearing it as a strapless dress, but those just don't want to stay up if you're as flat chested as I am, and I knew I wouldn't be wearing it much.
Then, one day, as I was going through my to-refashion pile, an idea came to me. I picked up this skirt and suddenly I knew what it wanted to be!
As you can see, I drafted a top bodice for it using a delicate mesh fabric. It was rather flimsy to work with, but I love the contrast between the knit and the mesh. Since the skirt is knit in a lace pattern, the whole dress has a sort of airy feeling which I love.
Construction details: I used an old Burda pattern I'd used before as my guideline for cutting the mesh. The one construction detail you might not notice is that I cut the front lower edge of the mesh (aka the seam-line connecting with the skirt) with an inward curve. If I'd cut it straight, the seam would have sat right in the middle of my boobs (yes, I said boobs), and that's not very flattering. I wanted it to be just above the bust, just like the skirt worn as a dress would look. This alteration also creates the slight high-low effect at the hem.
I used the original waistband of the skirt to bind the neckline, and pre-made bias tape to bind the armholes.
I'm totally loving this dress. It's very comfortable to wear (I mean, it's a knit), yet it's so pretty (like wanna-go-to-a-party pretty). What do you think? Are you as psyched about this refashion as I am?
P.S. You can find the tutorial for the necklace here.
In the last couple of years every summer I've been a huge fan of maxi dresses and skirts. They're the perfect thing to wear during the Estonian summer. They're light enough for warmer weather, but keep your legs warm in case of a sudden change in temperatures (not at all rare around these parts) or in the evenings.
I had already two me-made maxi dresses for the summer and a maxi skirt, but they were getting so much wear that I knew another maxi was in order. So here's my third maxi dress. This time in jersey fabric. Since I own both a serger/overlocker and a cover machine, it only took me about 2 hours to complete.
I've already worn it so many times that I'm thinking about making another version in a different fabric, but I'm not sure I have enough fabric in my stash. We'll see...
The process was rather simple, although the directions are long. I just want everything to be as clear as possible.
Step 1. Measuring the fabric
I measured the length of my dress (from the top of my shoulder to the ground, plus add seam allowances) and cut my fabric to that length. I used a tube fabric, meaning it was knit in the round, and the tube was the width needed for the hem (bottom circumference), so I only had to cut the fabric into on dress-length piece.
If you don't have tubular fabric, that's fine too. Here's how to measure the fabric you need:
1) Measure the length of your dress (= length from top of the shoulder to the ground + seam allowances [1cm for the shoulder seam + 3cm for the hem]). Then calculate the circumference of the widest part of your dress. This will probably be the hem, because you need to be able to step comfortably in that dress. One way to get that measurement is to take a big step forward with one foot, and then stand like that and measure around your ankles. Or, another way would be to add about 40-50cm to you hip measurement. Again, add side seam allowances to that measurement (4cm in total).
2) The second step is to measure the width of your fabric (if it's a tubular fabric, measure the width of the tube). If the width of your fabric is at least 4cm wider than the circumference of the widest part of your dress, then you only need one dress-length of fabric. If, however, the fabric is narrower than that, you need 2x the dress length of fabric. Does that make sense? (if not, leave me a comment)
Example:
Dress length + seam allowance = 154cm
Widest circumference + seam allowance = 200 cm
Fabric needed: 155 cm of 200cm-wide fabric or 310cm of narrower fabric
Step 2. Marking the dress pattern
Cut two pieces of fabric - both pieces being the length of your dress+seam allowance x 1/2 the widest circumference + 2cm seam allowance (in my example that would be 154cm x 102cm). Once you've cut the fabric, fold it in half.
For the top part I used my trusty tank top pattern. Several people have asked my about this pattern, so I finally looked it up, and it's from Burda 5/2007 pattern nr 109 (it's a racer back style), but I also found very good tank top patterns from Burda 11/2006 (nr 111) and Burda 6/2007 (nr 106, dress bodice).
If you don't have a pattern similar to this, just take a tank top from your closet, fold it in half and use that as a pattern to mark the top on you fabric.
I wanted a low back, so I cut both fabric pieces (the front and the back) using the front pattern piece.
Now, onto the skirt portion of the dress. First, measure the distance from the narrowest part of your waist to the widest part of your hips. Mark those on the fabric. Then measure your hip circumference and divide by 4. Mark that on the fabric (see picture above for the markings).
I drew the side seamline with a free hand starting from the waist and curved it out towards the hips, and then even more out towards the edge of the fabric until I reached the hem (or the widest part of the dress) (shown in the picture above).
Once my pieces were cut, I straightened the hem.
Step 3. Sewing
1) First, sew the shoulder seams.
2) Next, cut 3 long 3cm-wide strips of fabric from the remaining fabric scraps to cover the armholes and the neckline. Fold them in half and press with an iron. Then, fold them over the cut edges of the armholes and neckline just as you would with bias binding, and sew in place. I used my cover machine to sew them on. If you don't have a cover machine, this job can easily be done using a double needle on your sewing machine, or the zig-zag stitch.
3) After binding the armholes and neckline, sew the side seams together.
4) Finally, finish the hem. Fold the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric and press. Pin the hem in place and sew.
If you don't have a serger/over-locker or a cover machine, I'd recommend using a knit stitch (looks like little lightning bolts in a row, or like a crooked zig-zag) or a narrow zig-zag stitch for the side and shoulder seams, and a double needle or a zig-zag stitch for the binding and hem.
Step 4. Embellishment
If you want, you can embellish the dress with a few fabric flowers, a lace pocket or some beads. Or just leave it the way it is. I opted for some fabric flowers similar to these.
(Tutorial updated in May 2014)
Special thanks to Marita for photographing the dress!
My concert gown has been the biggest sewing project I've tackled in my seamstress career. Not only did I have to draft the pattern for the underdress from 3 different patterns, I had no instructions how to work with the upper layer or how to put all the elements together. I'm so proud of the end result! This project really showed me how much I've developed as a seamstress over the years.
I showed you little glimpses of the neckline and the dress in progress in part 1. Now you can see the beaded neckline in full glory. I was a little bit afraid that the neckline would have too much bling, but seeing it on the finished dress, I think it's just bright enough.
As you can see, I've swapped the wider ribbon for a narrower one. I didn't feel comfortable with the way the wide ribbon kept rushing together, plus the narrower ribbon makes my legs look super long. And that's a big plus when you have legs as short as mine.
I'm in love with the whole ensamble! I think the earrings (tutorial here) complete the dress. I thought they might be too much given the sparkling neckline, but when you're on stage, everything has to be larger than life, so that it would have an effect from the 20th row as well.
I couldn't be more pleased with the way my gown turned out. I'm especially happy that I was able to create my design exactly the way I imagined it from the beginning. Finishing this dress has given me so much encouragement to get going with sewing projects I thought I didn't have the skills to tackle. It just proves that I can make anything if I want it badly enough.
