Sewn // Maxi skirt & Pleated blouse

I've talked a lot about the Start Sewing Club on the blog over the past week, but I haven't properly blogged about the garments I made for the club. So, I thought I'd share a few (ahem...) photos of the finished projects that I made as samples for the club.

We did the shoot for the samples in a nearby park, and I love how they turned out. Hence the million photos about to follow. I've said this before, but every time Rein takes photos of me (aka 99% of the photos you see on the blog these days) I'm amazed by how much he's grown as a photographer over the past year. For instance, I didn't crop any of the photos from this shoot. I loved all the angles he shot! I'm seriously considering getting him into a photography course. I know this is totally unrelated to this post, but I'm just so proud of him.

Have you also noticed the improvement in the photography on the blog, or is it just me?

Back to the projects. I'm totally loving the maxi skirt! I'm actually contemplating wearing it to my best friend's wedding, but since I made it to be worn with flats, I'm not really sure.

I used a creamy pink slightly textured fabric I already had in my stash. I'm not sure about the fiber content, but if I had to guess, I'd say it's a cotton-viscose blend. It's a medium-weight and has a great drape. Luckily, I had just enough to make the skirt. I lined this one, since it was a tad too sheer. Adding a lining will be one of the bonus sessions in the course, by the way.

 My aim was to design something that would be very easy to create even for beginners. I know patterns can be a stumbling block for beginners, so I designed both my club projects to be made without a pattern to transfer and trace. This skirt, for example, consists of 2 rectangles, basically.

I know that a circle skirt is often suggested as a great first sewing project, but I actually disagree with that. Drafting a circle skirt is much more difficult than drafting a pleated skirt. Also, it's more difficult to sew, because of the curved hem.

Pleats, on the other hand, are so easy to construct and sew. And, there are have so many variations that once you've masted the basics of pleating and understand how to construct them, you can sew up a whole wardrobe full of different pleated skirt - each different from the rest.

I also wanted to leave out zippers. They can be intimidating for a beginner, and take the fun right out of sewing. And, I wanted to show that there are other ways to construct closures that don't involve the notorious zipper.

I carried the same principled onto the blouse. A very simple self-drafted pattern and no zippers. Also, no darts. A simple silhouette that would suit most body types was what I was after. I've been loving flowing loose-fitted deigns lately, so that's what I went for. You can always belt it is what I say.

To make room for our feminine curves, I added shoulder pleats, which also make pretty design features, I think. The width of the blouse and the fabric band create a faux capped sleeve. (Side note: the design is also very maternity-friendly)

The pattern is again constructed based on a rectangle that is then modified in the course of the sewing process. This is a process I developed to make creating a self-drafted pattern very easy and straight forward. You don't need any knowledge of pattern-drafting - being able to hold a ruler is enough.

The fabric I used for the blouse has a story of its own. I got it from my Grandma a few years back. It's a vintage fabric she had kept in her stash for about 30 years. So, the fabric itself is older than I am. What I love about it is that it has an oddly modern pattern. Which shows how styles always come back in fashion.

I hope you enjoyed the look at my club projects, and the behind the scenes details. What do you like or dislike about the projects I created for the club? Did you get excited to create your own version? Tell me in the comments!

xo. Hanna

P.S! If you got inspired to maybe join the sewing course, you can get all the club details HERE. 

Refashionista // Use sleeves to lengthen your sweater skirt

You might not know this about me, but I believe in refashioning my refashions. Whenever I alter a clothing, it's always about finding better use for it. Sometimes that means turning it into a completely new garment, and sometimes it's just a little fix.

When I turned this sweater into a skirt, I had every intention of leaving it that way and using the sleeves for a whole other refashionista project. But, the length of the skirt started to really bother me. You'll only see me in a mini-skirt ince in a blue moon, if that. So, I figured I had to fix the length in order to make this wearable. Insert the sleeves.

If you haven't seen it, check out the first part of this refashion here. And then, if your skirt is too short as well, come back and add some length using the sleeves.
Here's how:

1) Cut up your sleeves.
2) Place the skirt on top of the sleeve and mark the width needed. Add seam allowances. Measure the length you'll need to add and mark that on the sleeve as well. Add hem allowance (about 3cm would suffice) on the bottom, and seam allowance (about 1-1.5cm) on top.
3) Cut out according to the markings. Place the rectangle on the other sleeve and cut out the back rectangle. Place right sides together and sew the sides together (meaning the short ends of the rectangles).
4) Place the wide tube on top of the skirt so that right sides (the outer sides) are together and side seams match up. Pin them in place.

5) Sew the tube to the skirt.
6) press the hem allowance to the wrong side of the fabric.
7) Sew the hem.
8) Give it a good press and you're done!

To get some tips for sewing with knit fabrics, check out this post.

Hopefully, this little fix will help me get more wear out of the skirt. Sometimes, it's ok to refashion a piece more than once to figure out the best fit for you.

I have so much creative juice in me lately, but I just haven't had time to channel it into projects as I've been working on a pretty big project behind the scenes. It's something I'm so excited to share more about tomorrow.

For now, though, what do you think. Do you like the first or the second iteration of the skirt better?

xo. Hanna

Refashionista // Sweater into lined skirt with invisible waisband

Are you as excited as I am that Refashionista is finally back? After moving, I wasn't sure how often I would be able to do this feature, because I only brought a couple of to-be-refashioned items with me. I mean, there's not point taking a bunch of old clothing with me, right? (Actually, I would have loved to take ALL my junk, but sadly, there just wasn't enough room in the trunk of the car, nor in our small apartment.) I'd also heard, that there aren't many thrift or second-hand shops here in Germany - mostly high-end vintage boutique-type of stores with hefty price tags. But, luckily, we have two Humana second-hands here in Cologne. The first time I really felt I belonged here, was when I stepped into a Humana on sales day... Is that weird?

Anyway, I scored a lot of stuff for my shop, but also a little something for me and Rein. This gorgeous black and white striped sweater was one of those finds. Now, me turning a sweater into a skirt is nothing new, of course, but, I did want to show you how to add a lining and make an encased waistband that doesn't show (instead of a visible elastic one). When you're making the knit skirt out of a finer sweater, or you want to use a T-shirt for this project, you'll probably notice that every bump and seam-line will be visible through the skirt, and that's not flattering, now is it? So, you'd probably want to add more body to the skirt with a lining. Or, perhaps you'd like to make it warmer for the winter time.

 Outfit details // Blouse: hand-me-down // Skirt: refashioned // Necklace: Pearls & Scissors // Belt: DIY // Shoes: thrifted

 Here's what you need:

• Old fine-knit sweater (The waist of the sweater has to fit your hips)
• T-shirt or jersey fabric
• 3cm-wide elastic the width of you waist measurement
• Sewing machine, matching thread, scissors and pins

  STEP 1  
You can refer back to my first tutorial on sweater skirts for this part, but here's the short and sweet.
Cut off the sleeves and the top part of the sweater as shown above. Sew a bell-shape curve on the sides for the hips and to even out the armpits (also shown above). I used my serger/over-locker for the side seams, but you can also use a narrow zig-zag stitch on a regular sewing machine, just make sure to lengthen the stitch and narrow it (the setting on my sewing machine would be 3.5 for the stitch-length and 1.5 for width). You should end up with an outer skirt like the one pictured below.

    STEP 2   
Next, cut out and sew your lining. Place the skirt you just made on the T-shirt or fabric and cut two layers. Sew the lining pieces together to form an identical inner skirt. You can hem the lining if you like, but since jersey fabric don't fray, you don't have to. 

   STEP 3   
Now, place one skirt inside the other, so that the wrong sides are facing out, and the right sides face each other. Make sure to match the side-seams. Sew them together from the waist as shown above with the orange dotted line. 

 Now you should have this tube :)

Place the lining inside the skirt, so that the right sides are facing out this time and the outer skirt is, well, out, and the lining is inside. Fold the waistline so that the seam is flat, but the lining doesn't show form the outside, and press.

   STEP 4   
Cut your elastic to the size of your waist. Just put it around your waist, pull as snug as you'd like it to be and cut (leaving a couple of cm for seam allowances). Place the ends of the elastic together, so they overlap by about 2cm, and sew the ends together.

Place the elastic band between the skirt layers, so that the lining goes through the elastic ring. Pull it all the way up the the waist-seam.

 Place the seam of the elastic in line with the side-seam of the lining. Carefully turn the outer skirt onto the elastic so that the upper edge of the elastic is flush with the waist-seam. Pin the side seams of all three layers together.

Turn the outer-skirt on right-side out ( the elastic stays between the layers). Start sewing the casing from the right side of the skirt. The seam should be just below the elastic (leave about 0.5cm below the elastic), and the elastic should be against the waistline. Just adjust the placement of the elastic gently as you go along making sure that it's against the waist-seam and that you're not sewing over the elastic. I sewed it with a narrow zig-zag on my regular machine.
Since your elastic is probably smaller that your skirt waist, you need to pull the fabric as you go to make sure the payers are flat when you sew over them. This is harder to explain than to do :). Since the elastic is only secured in one spot, it should be easy to move the skirt layers on the elastic so that you don't have to stretch the elastic while sewing.
Lastly, I sewed the elastic to the skirt layers at the side seam where I pinned it at first. Just so it doesn't move around or twist and turn inside the casing.
Whew! All done.

I'm usually pretty skeptical about wearing knit pencil skirts, since they do emphasize the thigh area, which is not something I'd like to emphasize much, if you know what I mean. But, I have started wearing more tight knits, and I'm getting over the whole knit-pencil-skirts-make-me-look-fat-thing. I think this one is a hot little number (and my hubby agrees). And, the lining makes it so much more comfortable, and umm, secure. Like, I know everyone's not going to see my panty-line. I also like, that this let's me wear it without tights in the summer-time.

That's it for today, folks! I have a plan for the sleeves as well, so I'm not done with this sweater yet...

xo. Hanna

Sewn // A skirt and t-shirt for Mari Krõõt

Sometimes I do a little selfless sewing. Yes, I know, big shocker, but I do. I'm a good friend/wife/daughter like that. But, I have to admit, that it's way more difficult than sewing for myself. I know my body so well after years and years of sewing, but other people have a different body and I don't always know how to establish the best fit on them. Which is why these types of projects are such a learning curve for me.

Which brings me to this two projects. A really simple pleated skirt (you can find the tutorial on OEH here) and a pretty t-shirt from a Burda pattern. 

I knew that Burda patterns can be on the big side with too much ease, but I wasn't expecting the need to take in more than 10cm from the bust and waist, even though the measurements fit the chosen size perfectly.

All is well that ends well right? Well, after some trial and error we got the fit right and I think this look is so pretty on Mari Krõõt. A fitted top with a gathered skirt is the perfect look for curvy girls, I think. It highlights the waist and creates a beautiful hourglass shape.

Oh, and the whirl! That's the main thing. What do you think? I'm totally diggin' this look.

And, don't forget to enter the awesome halloween giveaway!

xo. Hanna

DIY Easy Two-layered Gathered Lace Skirt

Did you know I used to hate wearing a skirt? Well, actually the reason I hated it, was because I detested wearing tights. Fortunately, I got older and used to tights, but I still prefer to wear skirts mostly during summer, with bare feet. And, seeing that I don't own that many shorter summer skirts (I only seem to be wearing this one I made last year) there was a cap in my wardrobe that needed filling. Then, in a couple of hours, I made this super simple gathered lace skirt with two layers. The cool feature about this skirt is, that the inner layer is a pencil skirt, and the outer is a gathered skirt. I love this combo!

Here's how to make your own:

You will need:
1) An old t-shirt or stretch fabric
2) Lace
3) 5-cm-wide elastic
4) 2-cm-wide elastic
5) Sewing Machine
6) Pins, safety pin, scissors, thread

Start by constructing the underskirt:

From t-shirt
1) Find an old t-shirt that is your desired color (that you want peeking through). The width of the t-shirt waist has to equal the width of your hips.
2) Cut off the shoulders and sleeves, then sew a curved line from the top until about the center (marked lines on the image above).
3) Cut the excess seam allowances.
4) Measure the length of the elastic you'll need by pulling it around your waist. When it's nice and tight, make a mark and cut. You'll be using the 2-cm-wide elastic here. Or, you can also use lingerie elastic, whatever works better for you, or what you have at hand.

From scratch
1) Cut 2 rectangles of stretch fabric. The width of the rectangle equals you hip measurement divided by 2. The length equals the desired length of your dress minus 5cm.
2) Place the two rectangles right sides together and mark a curved line to the side seam similar to the one marked on the image above.
3) Sew side seams.
4) Cut  the excess seam allowances.
5) Measure the length of the elastic you'll need by pulling it around your waist. When it's nice and tight, make a mark and cut. You'll be using the 2-cm-wide elastic here. Or, you can also use lingerie elastic, whatever works better for you, or what you have at hand.
6) Hem the skirt if necessary.

 The second step is to sew the lace skirt:
1) Cut a rectangle from the lace with these measurements: width = 2xhips, length = finished skirt length + 7cm (+5cm for hemming, if you want).
2) Make a canal for the elastic. sew down 7 cm from the top of the lace. Most lace fabrics don't fray, so just fold 7cm to the wrong side of the fabric, and sew with a 1cm seam allowance, creating a 6cm wide canal for the elastic to go through.
3) If need be, sew the hem.
4) Attach a safety pin to on end of the 5-cm-wide elastic (which should be the same length as you used for the underskirt) and guide it through the canal. Makes sure to secure the end of the elastic to the end of the canal so you don't accidentally just pull it through (it has happened). Also, secure the other end once you get there.
5) fold the lace, right side in, and sew the back seam shut, securing the elastic as well.
6) Fold the seam allowance open on the wrong side and sew the elastic down, just for better comfort.

 

Yes, I did make mine out of an old curtain, if you were wondering :). I always try to find new use for old materials, so I gave it a try. I really like it, so I'm happy I took the risk.

Hope you enjoyed the tutorial and that it sparked a little creative fire in you!

xo Hanna

Refashionista: Knit skirt into dress

I'm very excited about today's refashion. Why? Well, I've done my share of refashions over the years, and I feel like I tend to repeat myself all too often. I mean, yes, every project is a bit different, but sometimes I just think to myself "Adding lace, again, are you? How original!" I love lace, by the way, and it certainly sneaks it's way into a lot of projects, but it's a great feeling when you think of a solution you haven't done before. And this dress is it. For months I just looked at it and my mind went blank. I thought about leaving it as is and wearing it as a strapless dress, but those just don't want to stay up if you're as flat chested as I am, and I knew I wouldn't be wearing it much.

Then, one day, as I was going through my to-refashion pile, an idea came to me. I picked up this skirt and suddenly I knew what it wanted to be!

As you can see, I drafted a top bodice for it using a delicate mesh fabric. It was rather flimsy to work with, but I love the contrast between the knit and the mesh. Since the skirt is knit in a lace pattern, the whole dress has a sort of airy feeling which I love.

Construction details: I used an old Burda pattern I'd used before as my guideline for cutting the mesh. The one construction detail you might not notice is that I cut the front lower edge of the mesh (aka the seam-line connecting with the skirt) with an inward curve. If I'd cut it straight, the seam would have sat right in the middle of my boobs (yes, I said boobs), and that's not very flattering. I wanted it to be just above the bust, just like the skirt worn as a dress would look. This alteration also creates the slight high-low effect at the hem.
I used the original waistband of the skirt to bind the neckline, and pre-made bias tape to bind the armholes.

I'm totally loving this dress. It's very comfortable to wear (I mean, it's a knit), yet it's so pretty (like wanna-go-to-a-party pretty). What do you think? Are you as psyched about this refashion as I am?

P.S. You can find the tutorial for the necklace here.