Struggling to get even seam allowances? 3 tips that help

Sewing has been on my mind a lot lately, and writing the Start Sewing Guide made me realize how many tricks I use when sewing that I don't even think about now, but didn't know when I first started. Those little tips can make sewing much easier and help get better results. Since fitting all that info into the guide would have made it into a novel, I thought I'd share some of them on the blog instead.

Today I'll tackle seam allowances. What's a seam allowance, you ask? It's the area between the edge of the fabric and the seam (meaning the line of stitches).

Some patterns have a set seam allowance built into them, which means it's very important to keep the seam allowance at that exact measure to ensure the best result. Other times, you'll have to add the seam allowance yourself and then it really comes down to your preferred seam allowance width. I usually sew with a 1cm (2/5") seam allowance, but a lot of American sewing pattern have a 5/8" (1.5cm) already added to the pattern pieces. Whether or not the seam allowances have already been added, and how wide they are is something you should always check before you start sewing using any pattern.

Here are 3 tips that help you keep your seam allowances constant while sewing.

 1) Use the presser foot to guide the seam. Since the most common presser foot is about 2cm wide, keeping the edge of the presser foot flush with the edge of the fabric will result in roughly a 1cm-wide seam allowance. This is the perfect fit for quilting where a narrower seam allowance is best and it's important to keep it consistent so the lines meet up when you assemble the blocks.

I used this method the most. Since I use mostly Burda patterns and self-drafted patterns where I need to add the seam allowances myself, I always opt for a narrower seam allowance. Using the presser foot edge as a guide is the easiest method I've found to keep an even seam allowance.

The downside - less extra fabric to adjust fit. Also, this method can be trickier to follow with flimsy fabrics that require more grip from the sewing machine.

 2) Use the guides on the sewing machine or create your own. Most modern sewing machines have guides built into the needle plate. For example, mine has a 1cm and a 1.5cm line. Just keep the edge of the fabric running along that marked line and you'll get a nice even seam allowance that's exactly the width you need.

If you don't have the necessary width marked on your machine, you can always make your own mark with a sharpie. You can remove the marking with nail polish remover after your done if you don't need it anymore.

You can see the seams I sewed below. 1) using the presser foot as a guide and 2) using the guide lines.

3) Keep your eye on the guide NOT the needle. A mistake I've seen novice or inexperienced seamstresses make is looking at the needle while they sew. I know it seems important to follow the needle, but in reality, it will just pull your attention away from the seam allowance and you can easily end up with a wobbly seam (and uneven seam allowances). It's much more efficient to keep your eye on the edge of the fabric and feed it along the guide, whether it be the edge of the presser foot or a guide on the needle plate. The sewing machine won't stop sewing when you're looking away from the needle, trust me! Just remove the pins before the presser foot runs over them and then there's no need to constantly supervise the needle.

By the way, these tips will also help you get nice straight seams.

If you want to learn more and dream of sewing your won clothing, subscribe to the Start Sewing list below and get the free 15-page Start Sewing Guide. I'm rolling out an awesome program called the Start Sewing Club real soon, and people on the list will get all the info first, plus some exclusive early bird bonuses.

Ok, so... start sewing!
xo. Hanna