2015/04/09

Refashionista Basics // How to re-hem and add ankle zips to skinny jeans

 I don't know about you, but I have short legs and big calves, so buying a pair of skinny jeans almost always means alterations are in order. Despite my initial hesitation to get on the skinny jeans love-train, I've really grown into them and now i just love the comfort and the look. One thing I hate though, is that some of them are just so damn skinny in the bottom. Yes, I know, they're called skinnies for a reason, but some of them are just so uncomfortable to get over the heel. Anyone else have problems with that?

My Mom bought me a new pair of skinnies last week while visiting. I guess these can also be called jeggings as they have an elastic waist. They're very comfy, but like always, too long and too skinny. So, I figured I'll add some ankle zippers to ease getting them on and off.
What you will need:
1) 2x 10cm-long metal zippers
2) basic sewing equipment 
STEP 1
The first step when re-hemming jeans is always to measure how much you need to shorten them. I do this by putting the pants on, turning up the hem up to where I want it to be and pin one hem in place. One pin is all you need to add. You can measure the other leg and the rest of the hem from there.
So, take the pants off, and measure the amount needed to cut off. You do this by deducting the hem allowance (3cm) from the overall rolled-up hem.
Mark the cutting line and just cut it off.  
STEP 2 - ADDING THE ANKLE ZIPPERS
1) Mark the hem allowance, so you'll know where it ends. Place the zipper on the outer seam of the trouser-leg and mark the end of the zipper teeth onto the leg. Now, rip out that seam up to that point. This will create the opening for the zipper.
2) Place the zipper inside the trouser-leg, so that the beginning is aligned with the hem-line, and the end with the mark you made in the previous step. Then, place one side of the opening on the zipper, so that the edge aligns with the center of the zipper, and pin into place.
3) Repeat with the other side of the the opening.
4) Open up the zipper and and sew around the zipper on your sewing machine. Make sure to use you zipper foot to ease your sewing.
STEP 3 - HEMMING
Now, all that's left to do is re-hem the jeans.
5) I always press the hem into place before sewing. It's my top tip for getting pretty and even hems. Seriously guys, don't underestimate the power of a good press. So, fold 1.5cm once, and then again, 1.5cm.You can cut the ends of the zipper shorter before doing this to make the hem less bulky. I cut the zipper so it would meet with the first turn of the hem, so it would be just up to the second turning point.
6) This step is optional, but just in case, you can pin the hem in place. I've done so much hemming over the years that I usually just skip this part.
7) Sew the hem with your sewing machine. If you want your hem to be extra stretchy, you could use the lightning bolt stitch, but otherwise, a regular straight stitch should do the job.
Done and done! 
I really like how these turned out. They are so much easier to get into and out of. And, the zipper add some style to the otherwise pretty boring jeans. Mine have faux zippered pockets in the front, so the metal zippers really go well with the style of this pair.

Any other short-legged girls out there?  Hope this helps when you buy another pair of pants made for people with annoyingly long legs (#alwayswantwhatyoudonthave).

Just out of curiosity, though, anyone having trouble with their trousers always being too short?

Happy sewing!
xo. Hanna

13 comments:

  1. I don't have short legs but I do have strong calves so I know the problem of skinny jeans just being a bit too tight... Great idea!

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    1. Lucky you! In that case, you can just skip step 1 and go straight to step 2. I always get pissed that there never seems to be any length 30 in stock in stores. I mean, I can't be the only one this short, right?

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  2. I am so glad you wrote about this Hanna, I have a pair of bootcut jeans that are ripped at the bottom and I want to turn them into skinny jeans with zippers at the side, so this tutorial is perfect!

    And yes, at 5ft 2in, most of my pants have to be hemmed...but I choose my battles :P, so skinny jeans generally get either bunched up at the bottom or cuffed.

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    Replies
    1. Perfect timing, eh? :) Sounds like a great plan.
      Sometimes I'm lazy as well, and just cuff my jeans.

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  3. Team short-legged here as well! Thanks for the tip on how to mount the zipper!
    Obviously, I never have any problem with trousers being too short, but I have with trousers becoming too large (it sounds like "hey I do so much workout that I don't fill my jeans anymore!" but unfortunately I think that the truth is that they tend to strech in the washing machine...) so if you have tips on how to fix that, I'd be interested!

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    Replies
    1. Hmm, I've never had that problem. Mine will mostly only get too tight (that might be the chocolate, but let's say it's the washing machine's fault). I'll keep the problem in mind for future posts.

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    2. I've noticed something curious about stretching: if the fabric has some lycra, it stretches during wear but after washing it becomes tight again, but with every other cycle the jeans become more and more loose. I had to reskinnify (it's not a word, is it?) mine a few weekes ago... Hanna did a tutorial on that: http://www.pearlsandscissors.com/2014/09/diy-flared-jeans-into-skinnies-with.html

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    3. Thank you, Ola, for pointing out that tutorial! It didn't even pop into my mind :P

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    4. Yeah this is exactly the problem I have! Tight after washing dut stetched after a few hours of wearing! Thank you for the tutorial!

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    5. Then it's a matter of the material. Just keep note of the fiber content and keep that in mind next time you buy a new pair of jeans :)

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  4. I'm rather long-legged, so the majority of jeans turns out a little bit on the short side (though I've learnt that it looks okay with flats) but I've also noticed that the really skinny skinnies are difficult to pull past the heel. But that's not the problem, because I don't like my jeans that skinny anyway :P

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    Replies
    1. I used to stay away from skinnies since I thought I wouldn't look good in them, but now I kind of like them. I guess the look was just unfamiliar to me and I had to get used to it more.

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  5. This comment has been removed by the author.

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