Refashion Basics: Tips for sewing knits with a serger/overlocker

Tackling your first refashion projects can be challenging, especially when you're not an experienced seamstress to begin with. And even if you are, refashioning existing garments can create challenges that you don't encounter when sewing from scratch. You might need a few tips and tricks to help you along and to give that extra confidence to get started. I've been there and done that. Every skill I have, has come through trial and error and a lot of practice. And I'd like to share that knowledge with you. So, I've created this new series called "Refashion basics" where I'll be sharing my refashioning tips and tricks.

Today I'd like to focus on sewing knits with a serger/overlocker. Sometimes all you need is to take in the side seams of a sweater to make it wearable. Or you might want to use a sweater to make yourself a winter skirt or some socks.
I know not many of you have this type of machine and there will be a post about sewing knits with a regular sewing machine as well.

An overlocker is a very handy machine to have when you sew a lot with knits. I bought mine 6 years ago and have never regretted the decision. However, this machine is not a miracle worker, especially when it comes to thick sweater knits. The main problems with sewing thick knits are stretched and wavy seams and missed stitches. Here are my top tips for sewing with knits:

1) If possible, do a test seam. If you're going to cut a sizable piece of the sweater off, you can test the seam on that portion, leaving room for the final cut.
2) Turn the gather/stretch nob to maximum gathering. This will help to prevent wavy seams.
3) The thicker the knit the longer the stitch. I use the maximum length on sweaters. Again, it helps to prevent wavy seams.
4) Make sure you loosen the 1 and 2 thread (the needles) tension a little bit when sewing thicker knits, compared to regular jersey knits or other fabric.
5) Hand-basting close to the seam line can also prevent stretched out seams.
6) It can be tricky to obtain a straight seam line. Mark your seam line with tailor's chalk or a piece of soap (work wonderfully on darker material) to make it easy to follow.
7) Don't cut any excess material before sewing. The existing seams will help hold  the layers in place giving you better lined edges.
8) Pin the layers together about 3cm from the seam line. I usually pin every 5 cm along the seam line. This keeps the layers in place, so you don't end up with mismatched edges.
9) Use a tapestry/wool needle to hide the thread ends. Leave long tails when sewing, thread the needle with the tail and push it through 5 cm of the seam. Cut the excess thread.  I learned this tip from Zoe.

I hope these tips are helpful! If you have any tricks to add, do share them in the comments.